Tutorial — Beginner to Advanced¶

Five levels. Includes the Mechanical Engineer's plan outline at the end of Level 4.

Level 1 — Programming and feasibility¶

Goal: before drawing anything, define what you're building, where, and whether it's actually feasible.

The brief (the "program")¶

Write a 2–4 page document:

Who lives here. Permanent occupants, frequent visitors, future kids/aging parents/home office.
Lifestyle. Cooking style (chef? minimal?), entertaining frequency, hobbies that need space (woodshop, music room, yoga, server rack), pets.
Climate response. Heating-dominated vs. cooling-dominated; storm exposure; seismic zone.
Aesthetic direction. Pull 30+ inspiration images and group them by why. "I like this for the daylight" is more useful than "I like this."
Performance targets. HERS index, ACH50 (air leakage), Manual J load expectations.
Budget envelope. Land + soft costs + hard costs + contingency. Be honest with yourself.
Schedule. When you need to be in.
Resale considerations vs. forever-home tradeoffs.

Site selection (if not already owned)¶

A buildable lot has: - Legal access — a frontage on a public road or recorded easement. - Utilities — water, sewer (or feasible septic), electric, gas (if desired) within affordable distance. - Zoning — residential of the right density; setbacks that don't kill the layout. - Topography — slope under ~20% is friendly; >30% adds significant foundation cost. - Soils — expansive clays, high water table, or rock can each add five-figure costs. - Easements/encumbrances — utility easements often forbid building in their corridor; HOA architectural review can be onerous.

Order a survey and geotech before closing if site quality is uncertain. Zoning verification letter from the AHJ before closing if zoning is borderline.

Budget rules of thumb (US, 2025-ish, varies massively)¶

Hard costs (construction): \(200–\)600+/sf depending on region and quality. High-cost coastal areas push much higher.
Soft costs: 10–20% of hard costs (design, engineering, permits, financing, surveys).
Site costs: highly variable; sloped/wooded/rocky lots can be \(50k–\)300k+ before any house cost.
Contingency: minimum 10%, prefer 15–20% for first-time owner-builders. You will use it.
Cost of owner-builder savings: ~10–25% of GC markup; offset by your time and risk premium.

Deliverable for Level 1¶

A single document: program brief + budget envelope + buildable-site checklist + rough schedule. Sign it yourself. This is the contract you have with yourself.

Level 2 — Schematic design and code basics¶

Goal: turn the program into a defensible building concept that meets code in concept.

The codes you must know¶

International Residential Code (IRC) — governs 1- and 2-family dwellings up to 3 stories. Most jurisdictions adopt some recent IRC version with state amendments.
International Building Code (IBC) — applies to multifamily, larger or commercial.
International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) — energy/envelope requirements (or your state's equivalent).
NFPA 70 (NEC) — National Electrical Code.
IPC / IRC plumbing chapters — plumbing.
IMC / IRC mechanical chapters — mechanical.
Local zoning code — setbacks, height, lot coverage, FAR (floor area ratio), lot area minimums.

Buy or access (UpCodes is excellent): - The IRC of your AHJ's adopted year + amendments. - The IECC of your AHJ's adopted year + amendments. - Your local zoning ordinance.

You don't need to memorize. You need to know they exist, look up specifics as you design, and verify your plan against them before you submit.

Key constraints to verify early¶

Setbacks (front, side, rear, accessory).
Maximum height. Often measured average grade to ridge or to mid-roof.
Maximum lot coverage / impervious area.
Stair geometry (rise 7-¾" max, run 10" min, headroom 6'-8" min — IRC R311.7).
Egress windows from every sleeping room (IRC R310). Net clear opening 5.7 sf, min 24" high, 20" wide, sill ≤ 44".
Smoke alarms / CO alarms (IRC R314, R315).
Stair guards 36" min, balusters spaced ≤ 4" sphere (IRC R312).
Exterior door egress, garage separation (1-hour rated).
Exit illumination, etc.

Schematic deliverable¶

Site plan placing the building on the lot at correct setbacks.
Floor plans at ⅛" = 1' or ¼" = 1' showing rooms, dimensions, openings.
Roof plan showing pitches and shape.
Massing/3D model showing the building outside.
Square footage breakdown by floor and by use (conditioned, garage, porch).
A 1-page code summary confirming compliance with the constraints above.

You can do this in Chief Architect / SketchUp / Revit / pencil. Whatever tool, the thinking is the same.

Level 3 — Construction documents and consultants¶

Goal: drawings sufficient to permit and price the project.

Engage your team¶

Structural engineer — you will need stamped structural drawings. Expect \(3k–\)15k+.
MEP engineer — many small homes use prescriptive electrical/plumbing/HVAC; some jurisdictions require stamped MEP drawings, especially for above-code performance or unique systems.
Energy consultant / HERS rater — to certify the building meets/exceeds energy code. Required in many states. Can also help with rebates.
Civil engineer — for stormwater, drainage, septic, complex sites.
Landscape designer — required in some HOAs/jurisdictions for plan approval.

Construction document set¶

What goes into a permit-ready set is in usage.md. Repeat in summary:

Cover + code sheet.
Site plan.
Foundation plan.
Floor plans.
Roof plan.
Elevations.
Building sections.
Wall sections / details.
Schedules (window, door, finish).
Structural plans (stamped).
Electrical, plumbing, mechanical plans.
Energy compliance.
Specifications book (or spec notes on drawings for residential).

Coordinate your trades on paper¶

This is where MEP coordination matters. Show: - Plumbing chases (where stacks run). - Mechanical room location and equipment footprints. - Electrical panel location. - HVAC duct paths and supply/return locations. - Critical clearances (water heater service, panel working space).

For a small home this is often coordinated mentally + walking through the model. For a custom home with hydronic radiant + heat pump + ERV + solar + battery, you need to draw it.

Level 4 — Permits, bidding, and contracting¶

Goal: legally start building. Have a price you trust.

Permit process (typical US)¶

Pre-application meeting with the AHJ — recommended, free or cheap. Catch zoning/code issues before submission.
Submit drawings + application + fees through the AHJ's portal.
Plan check — reviewers (often building, planning/zoning, fire, public works, health/septic if applicable) issue comments.
Respond to comments with revised drawings. Iterate as needed (1–4 rounds is normal).
Permit issued — pay fees, post placards on site. Inspections begin.
Inspections during construction — typical: footing/foundation, framing, rough plumbing, rough electrical, rough mechanical, insulation, drywall, final.
Certificate of Occupancy (CO) at end after all final inspections pass.

Permit timing: typical 6–16 weeks for a custom home. Plan accordingly.

Bidding¶

You can: - Hire a GC (general contractor) — they bid the whole job; you pay them; they pay subs. Markup 15–25%. - Be the GC yourself (owner-builder) — you bid each trade; manage schedule; pay each sub. Save the markup; take the risk and time. - Construction Manager (CM) at risk — somewhere between; you pay a fee for management; the CM contracts with subs at cost.

For owner-builders, get 3+ bids per trade. Ask each: - License number, insurance certificates (you will be named additional insured or work under your owner's policy). - Lien releases (conditional with payment, unconditional after). - Schedule estimate. - What's included / excluded explicitly. - Last 3 references with similar projects.

Contract essentials¶

AIA forms (A105 / A107 for small, A101 + A201 for medium) are widely used. Or your attorney drafts. Don't sign verbal "we'll figure it out" arrangements.
Scope of work — line-item explicit.
Schedule of values for progress payments.
Change order process — written, signed before work proceeds.
Retention — 5–10% held back until final completion.
Liquidated damages for substantial-completion delay (sometimes contentious; negotiate).
Dispute resolution clause.
Warranty period — typically 1 year on workmanship; longer on specific systems.

Insurance and finance¶

Owner-builder policy — covers liability and builder's risk during construction. Standard homeowner's doesn't.
Builder's risk insurance — covers materials and structure during construction.
Financing options: cash, construction loan (typically converted to mortgage at CO), HELOC. Construction loans require detailed budget, schedule, and inspections.

The Mechanical Engineer's plan outline¶

If you're a ME, here's a 12–18 month timeline that plays to your strengths.

Phase 0 — Self-education (months -6 to 0)¶

Read the IRC cover-to-cover for the chapters relevant to your project (foundations, framing, energy, mechanical). Don't memorize; index.
Read Builder Magazine, JLC (Journal of Light Construction), Fine Homebuilding archives.
Take a Manual J/S/D course (ACCA offers self-paced). As an ME, the calcs will be obvious; the judgment (oversizing equipment is bad; ducted vs. ductless tradeoffs) is what's worth learning.
Spend 20+ hours in Chief Architect or Revit. Build a model of your current house; compare to its actual layout. Quickly exposes gaps.
Visit 5+ houses under construction in your area. Talk to the framers and plumbers. They'll tell you everything.

Phase 1 — Site + program (months 1–3)¶

Acquire site (or finalize site analysis on owned land). Survey, geotech, zoning verification.
Write the program. Iterate with cohabitants. Don't skip this step; it's the hardest one to redo later.
Schematic floor plans and massing in your tool of choice.
Energy modeling pass — REScheck or BeOpt for full building energy modeling. As an ME you'll enjoy this.
Preliminary budget with 20% contingency.

Phase 2 — Design development (months 3–6)¶

Hire architect or commit to self-design + structural engineer. Permit acceptance for self-designed residential varies by state — research yours.
Hire structural engineer.
Hire MEP engineer if your design is non-standard (radiant floors, geothermal, complex DHW, off-grid, large solar/storage).
Develop CDs (construction documents) iteratively. As an ME, you'll find yourself sketching duct routes and panel locations on the floor plans — do it.
Manual J/S/D in WrightSoft or CoolCalc. Compare to a sanity-check rule of thumb (e.g., 15–25 BTU/sf cooling for a tight house in a moderate climate).
Pick HVAC system: heat pump (air-source most likely; ground-source if site allows and budget permits), single-speed vs. variable-speed, ducted vs. ductless or mixed.
Pick envelope: walls (2×6 + exterior continuous insulation; or double-stud; or SIPs), roof (vented vs. unvented; insulation type), windows (U-factor and SHGC by orientation).
Decide on ERV/HRV (pretty much mandatory for tight envelopes).
Decide on solar / storage / EV charging readiness.

Phase 3 — Permitting (months 6–8)¶

Pre-application meeting with AHJ.
Submit. Iterate on plan-check comments (typical 2–4 cycles).
While in permit cycle, send drawings out for trade bids. Time-saving overlap.

Phase 4 — Construction (months 8–18+)¶

Mobilize site (utility connections, erosion control, temporary power).
Foundation: excavation, footings, foundation walls or slab.
Framing.
Mechanical, electrical, plumbing rough-in.
Insulation and drywall.
Finishes: floors, cabinets, trim.
Exterior: roofing, siding, paint.
Site finish: landscape, drives, walks.
Final MEP, fixtures, appliances.
As an ME during construction: you will end up reviewing every shop drawing the trades hand you. Be the engineer; verify performance. Check duct sizing in the field, not just on plans. Verify torque on critical fasteners. Use a pressure-testing approach to commissioning the envelope (blower-door test) and the duct system (Duct Blaster).

Phase 5 — Commissioning and move-in (months 18+)¶

Blower door test — target ACH50 ≤ 3 (code) or much lower (~1) for a high-performance build.
Duct leakage test.
HVAC commissioning: verify airflow at each register vs. Manual D design, refrigerant charge, refrigerant subcool/superheat.
Solar / battery commissioning per inverter manufacturer.
HRV/ERV commissioning: balance airflows.
Final inspections and CO.
Punch list with the GC or your subs (30+ items typical for a custom home).
Move in.
1-year walkthrough and warranty work.

Where ME background uniquely helps¶

HVAC design and commissioning — you can question oversized equipment, verify Manual J inputs, push back on contractor "rules of thumb."
Plumbing layout efficiency — minimize hot-water wait times via sane trunk-and-branch or home-run with manifold; insulate runs.
Building science — vapor profiles, dew points in wall assemblies, drying potential — ME thermodynamics directly applies.
Solar/storage — load and production modeling.
Critical-path thinking — schedules, dependencies; you've done it for projects.
Reading and understanding shop drawings — already a skill.

Where ME background does NOT help¶

Aesthetic decisions. You will be tempted to over-rationalize. Engage someone with design eye if it's not a strength.
Local-trade culture and subcontractor management. You're new to this; subs aren't.
Financial structuring of the project. Construction loans, draws, lien waivers — talk to a real estate attorney.

Level 5 — Owner-as-CM (Construction Manager)¶

Goal: running construction yourself, at scale.

This level is the deep end. It requires:

Daily site presence or a trusted superintendent.
Schedule discipline: a Gantt with critical-path awareness.
Procurement: ordering long-lead items (windows, custom cabinets, structural steel) months ahead.
RFI process: requests for information when drawings are unclear; documented in writing.
Submittal management: subs send shop drawings; you review and approve in writing.
Pay app management: weekly or biweekly, with lien waivers.
Punch list management at substantial completion.
Final lien releases, Notice of Completion filing, CO.

This is a job. As an owner-builder employed full-time elsewhere, the responsible plan is to either (a) take a sabbatical, (b) hire a CM-at-risk who runs day-to-day with you as principal, or © accept a longer schedule and budget for delays.

If you've completed all five levels, congratulations: you've effectively performed the role of a small custom-home GC, and the cost-savings vs. risk math has fallen out one way or the other.